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A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives

Received: 23 July 2023    Accepted: 14 August 2023    Published: 6 September 2023
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Abstract

The last two decades have seen an increase in active-led skin care products in over the counter and retail market places. Consumers have become more knowledgeable about ingredients used in topical products resulting in formulations with vitamins and other active ingredients gaining popularity. Further, the need for instantaneous and short-term benefits, consumers are moving towards high doses of active products. This poses a challenge for formulation scientists to stabilize high active doses and ensure potency over shelf life. Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is one such ubiquitous active commonly found in topical products claiming brightening, skin firming and toning benefits. As humans lack the enzyme required for synthesis of Vitamin C, we obtain it through diet or topical application. Vitamin C consumption results in insignificant benefits due to limited bioavailability, making topical application the major route of delivery. Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant; when applied topically it protects the skin from damaging free radicals produced due to exposure to UV-rays and other environmental stressors. However, ascorbic acid has been reported to be unstable in aqueous systems and readily undergoes oxidation making it inactive. This has led to the generation of multiple pro-drugs and derivatives which dissociate to release free ascorbic acid or its ionic form in the skin. In this review, we have focused on the clinical efficacy of vitamin C and its derivatives, suitable for various applications. This will serve as a ready reckoner for formulators creating vitamin C based products.

Published in Pharmaceutical Science and Technology (Volume 7, Issue 2)
DOI 10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11
Page(s) 20-26
Creative Commons

This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted use, distribution and reproduction in any medium or format, provided the original work is properly cited.

Copyright

Copyright © The Author(s), 2024. Published by Science Publishing Group

Keywords

Ascorbic Acid, Vitamin C, Antioxidant, Depigmentation, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside

References
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Cite This Article
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    Oormila Sasidharan, Anjali Gholap, Rachna Rastogi. (2023). A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives. Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, 7(2), 20-26. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11

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    ACS Style

    Oormila Sasidharan; Anjali Gholap; Rachna Rastogi. A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives. Pharm. Sci. Technol. 2023, 7(2), 20-26. doi: 10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11

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    AMA Style

    Oormila Sasidharan, Anjali Gholap, Rachna Rastogi. A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives. Pharm Sci Technol. 2023;7(2):20-26. doi: 10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11

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  • @article{10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11,
      author = {Oormila Sasidharan and Anjali Gholap and Rachna Rastogi},
      title = {A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives},
      journal = {Pharmaceutical Science and Technology},
      volume = {7},
      number = {2},
      pages = {20-26},
      doi = {10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11},
      url = {https://doi.org/10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11},
      eprint = {https://article.sciencepublishinggroup.com/pdf/10.11648.j.pst.20230702.11},
      abstract = {The last two decades have seen an increase in active-led skin care products in over the counter and retail market places. Consumers have become more knowledgeable about ingredients used in topical products resulting in formulations with vitamins and other active ingredients gaining popularity. Further, the need for instantaneous and short-term benefits, consumers are moving towards high doses of active products. This poses a challenge for formulation scientists to stabilize high active doses and ensure potency over shelf life. Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is one such ubiquitous active commonly found in topical products claiming brightening, skin firming and toning benefits. As humans lack the enzyme required for synthesis of Vitamin C, we obtain it through diet or topical application. Vitamin C consumption results in insignificant benefits due to limited bioavailability, making topical application the major route of delivery. Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant; when applied topically it protects the skin from damaging free radicals produced due to exposure to UV-rays and other environmental stressors. However, ascorbic acid has been reported to be unstable in aqueous systems and readily undergoes oxidation making it inactive. This has led to the generation of multiple pro-drugs and derivatives which dissociate to release free ascorbic acid or its ionic form in the skin. In this review, we have focused on the clinical efficacy of vitamin C and its derivatives, suitable for various applications. This will serve as a ready reckoner for formulators creating vitamin C based products.},
     year = {2023}
    }
    

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    T1  - A Review of Clinical Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C and Its Derivatives
    AU  - Oormila Sasidharan
    AU  - Anjali Gholap
    AU  - Rachna Rastogi
    Y1  - 2023/09/06
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    N1  - https://doi.org/10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11
    DO  - 10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11
    T2  - Pharmaceutical Science and Technology
    JF  - Pharmaceutical Science and Technology
    JO  - Pharmaceutical Science and Technology
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    PB  - Science Publishing Group
    SN  - 2640-4540
    UR  - https://doi.org/10.11648/j.pst.20230702.11
    AB  - The last two decades have seen an increase in active-led skin care products in over the counter and retail market places. Consumers have become more knowledgeable about ingredients used in topical products resulting in formulations with vitamins and other active ingredients gaining popularity. Further, the need for instantaneous and short-term benefits, consumers are moving towards high doses of active products. This poses a challenge for formulation scientists to stabilize high active doses and ensure potency over shelf life. Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is one such ubiquitous active commonly found in topical products claiming brightening, skin firming and toning benefits. As humans lack the enzyme required for synthesis of Vitamin C, we obtain it through diet or topical application. Vitamin C consumption results in insignificant benefits due to limited bioavailability, making topical application the major route of delivery. Ascorbic acid is an antioxidant; when applied topically it protects the skin from damaging free radicals produced due to exposure to UV-rays and other environmental stressors. However, ascorbic acid has been reported to be unstable in aqueous systems and readily undergoes oxidation making it inactive. This has led to the generation of multiple pro-drugs and derivatives which dissociate to release free ascorbic acid or its ionic form in the skin. In this review, we have focused on the clinical efficacy of vitamin C and its derivatives, suitable for various applications. This will serve as a ready reckoner for formulators creating vitamin C based products.
    VL  - 7
    IS  - 2
    ER  - 

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  • Bregma Science LLP, Bangalore, India

  • Bregma Science LLP, Bangalore, India

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